I spent 96 hours in Canada’s ‘forgotten province’ — one of its last untouched gems

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I’ve lived next to my neighbours for over a decade, but I’ve barely exchanged a casual “g’day” with them.

I’ve felt a sense of belonging for the first time in a long time.

At home, dragging a chair up to a table for 700 people leads to all sorts of uplifting conversations. And, if you’re a lobster novice like me, detailed instructions on how to crack them.

Aside from my mob, I didn’t notice a single international visitor, and most visitors from elsewhere were from other parts of Australia.

It was a similar story across the region, and I soon worked out I’d chanced upon one of the few spots that mass tourism had yet to discover.

New Brunswick’s ‘Grand Canyon’

I’d call it the country’s “forgotten” region, so I’d say my expectations were pretty low.

But once I got to dry land, I found out that this place is actually a real treat. Nature enthusiasts, take a look: there are lush national parks, gorgeous waterfalls, picturesque beaches, and quaint country towns to explore.

You’ll get to experience all of these on a 30km cliffside drive. Adult entry to the park costs $12.17 per day.

Walking through towering pine trees at a rest stop, we stumbled upon what locals refer to as New Brunswick’s Grand Canyon. Officially known as Walton Glen Gorge Falls, it was formed by a series of volcanic eruptions and is now covered in a thick layer of trees.

The world’s highest tides

In the Bay of Fundy, you can see the world’s highest tides, reaching as high as 16 metres. These massive tides have caused some pretty dramatic rock erosion, and each of these formations has a nickname. Keep an eye out for the Jay Leno rock, which has a pretty distinctive nose and chin.

It’s a good idea to drop in early, ideally before 10:30am if you can.

A two-day entry pass is $15.85 or £8.93 for adults, but I reckon booking one of their informative tours, which are $18.23 or £10.26 per person, would be a good idea.

We were given a comprehensive tour by our guide Joe, who swapped a career in IT for a life outdoors. The facts were mind-blowing; the sandstone we were walking on is 350 million years old.


Note: The above list is not exhaustive, and there are many other great places to eat and drink in New Brunswick.

, run by Gillian.

Made to order and having a perfect balance between being crunchy and light.

We gave four vintages a go while chillin’ next to the Saint John market, which is the oldest market in Canada. The wild blueberry is a must-try.

A generous portion costs twenty-six bucks.

We chucked back a few dozen whiz-bang oysters for $3.50 each, then followed up with a big bowl of seafood chowder for $19.

Get the lobster roll with a side of your choice. It’s a ripper at $32, considering it’s chock-full of a whole lobster, and that’s a real bargain at eighteen quid.

Canada’s ‘best destination’

Fed and watered, it was time to check out the untouched beaches of St Andrews, a seaside holiday spot with a top-notch reputation.

declared St Andrews to be Canada’s ‘top spot’, beating the likes of Niagara, Banff and Montreal.

Perhaps what makes St Andrews so unique is that it feels like a place stuck in a bygone era. This view is reinforced when we came across a Gen Z barista in a coffee shop who had never heard of Oscar-winning actress Jennifer Lawrence.

One of its most popular attractions is Kingsbrae Gardens, featuring over 50,000 flowers, plants, ponds, and waterways. Entry costs $19 for adults.

It costs $99.00 (around £56) during peak season, which is from July 1 to September 15. Tours are restricted to 12 people.

The flotation suits looked like a cross between an astronaut’s onesie and a road sweeper’s uniform. But our fashion blunders were worth it, as about 45 minutes into our trip, we spotted our first minke whale. These whales can grow up to 10.6 metres in length.

It’s not just whales we might come across. Not long after we set sail, we chanced upon an island teeming with seals. Our skipper pulled up at a safe distance to watch them lazing in the sun. We also spotted a bald eagle roosting in a tree and several porpoises as well.


Ruth Lawes was a guest in Atlantic Canada and New Brunswick.

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