A New Chapter in Louis Vuitton’s Cruise Show Tradition
Nicolas GhesquiEre, the women’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton, has always been known for his bold choices when it comes to selecting locations for the brand’s cruise shows. Since the first cruise collection was unveiled in 2014 in Monaco, GhesquiEre has consistently chosen iconic and breathtaking venues. These have included the Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum in Rio, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, in 2016; Eero Saarinen’s TWA Flight Centre at New York’s JFK Airport in 2019; and the John Lautner-designed Bob and Dolores Hope Estate in Palm Springs in 2015.
For the launch of the cruise 2027 collection, Louis Vuitton returned to New York, but this time the venue was vastly different from the futuristic structure of the TWA Flight Centre. The event took place at The Frick Collection, a museum located along Central Park. Once a private mansion from New York’s Gilded Age, The Frick Collection was established by industrialist Henry Clay Frick and opened to the public in 1935. It is home to masterpieces by artists such as Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Titian.
The Frick has recently undergone a major renovation that expanded its galleries, upgraded its infrastructure, and opened the second floor to the public for the first time.
A New Partnership with The Frick Collection
The Louis Vuitton cruise show marks the beginning of a new partnership between the maison and The Frick Collection. For the next three years, the Parisian house will be a principal cultural sponsor of the institution, supporting initiatives such as free monthly Friday evenings and a two-year curatorial position.
GhesquiEre’s starting point for the show was the dichotomy between uptown and downtown that defines New York life. “This duality between downtown and uptown is very universal, but is so representative of a certain mystery of New York,” said the designer while giving a preview of the range.
The Frick Collection symbolizes the collection’s uptown allure, while 80s pop artist Keith Haring embodies its downtown vibes.
A Unique Collaboration with Keith Haring
In an unexpected coincidence, after deciding to collaborate with the artist’s foundation for the cruise line, GhesquiEre discovered a Louis Vuitton briefcase from the 1930s that Haring had tagged in 1984 and that the maison had acquired for its archives. The original piece was part of the opening look: a red cardigan paired with slouchy jeans and a zebra-printed belt.
Just like Haring, who started out as an underground artist downtown before showing his work in the fancy galleries of uptown Manhattan, “the characters in this show go from downtown to uptown and affirm their presence at The Frick Collection, and become a part of this beautiful landscape that is both uptown and downtown,” said GhesquiEre.
Haring’s acid colours and squiggly patterns looked almost jarring in the hallowed grounds of the Frick, but that juxtaposition somehow worked. GhesquiEre found a lot of similarities between Haring’s universal appeal and Louis Vuitton’s democratic approach to luxury. “Keith Haring represents that unity of generations and social levels, not just in his work but in the message he sent,” said the designer.
A Celebration of American Style
Denim separates, leather jackets, fishing vests and hiking gear were nods to the “sophisticated casualness” of American style, while ruffled tops, upholstery details and lavish decorations reminiscent of New York’s Gilded Age were veiled homages to the grandeur of the Frick.
That clash between historicism and modernity has always been at the heart of GhesquiEre’s work for Louis Vuitton, where over the years he has explored themes such as science fiction and Renaissance painting, often in the same outfit.
A Moment of Positivity and Escapism
The designer also felt that this was the right moment to bring some positivity and provide some escapism from all that’s going on in the world. “For this cruise, we wanted a jolt of colour and telling a story that makes us forget what’s happening right now,” said the designer, who referred to Haring’s vivid palette as “colour therapy”. “Everyone is a bit scared, but let’s try to have a moment of pleasure together.”
Cruise or resort collections drop in stores in November and are so named because, back in the day, women would shop for resort wear to take with them on cruises or on trips to warmer climates during the holidays. These midseason lines have become a significant part of luxury brands’ marketing and commercial activities.
