Style Edit: Victoria Reynolds on Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book 2024 High Jewellery

The Legacy of Jean Schlumberger and the Evolution of Tiffany & Co.’s High Jewellery

Victoria Reynolds, chief gemologist and vice-president of high jewellery diamond and gemstone acquisition at Tiffany & Co., has spent an impressive 38 years shaping the brand’s most iconic pieces. As the first woman to hold the role of chief gemologist in the maison’s 188-year history, she has played a pivotal role in curating the Blue Book 2025 Sea of Wonder collection, which is now making waves in the world of high jewellery.

Reynolds is responsible for sourcing all the diamonds and coloured gemstones featured in the Blue Book, the brand’s annual high jewellery line. Her collaboration with chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille has resulted in a collection that pays homage to the legendary Jean Schlumberger, who began working for Tiffany & Co. in 1956. Schlumberger’s marine-inspired designs, such as the starfish brooch, seahorse, and jellyfish, have been reimagined by Verdeille, giving them a modern twist while staying true to their original spirit.

One of the most significant moments in this collaboration was the recent acquisition of an enormous 7,500-carat kunzite, which marks the 60th anniversary of one of Tiffany & Co.’s most beloved designs: Bird on a Rock. Reynolds shared her insights during a high jewellery preview in Hong Kong, where she discussed the creative process behind the latest collection.

A Journey Through the Ocean’s Wonders

The Blue Book 2025 Sea of Wonder collection is deeply inspired by the ocean, a theme that resonated strongly with Jean Schlumberger. His work often drew from the natural world, particularly the sea, and this collection continues that legacy. Nathalie Verdeille’s reinterpretation of Schlumberger’s iconic designs brings a fresh perspective while maintaining the essence of his artistry.

The collection features a range of exquisite pieces, each showcasing the craftsmanship and innovation that define Tiffany & Co. One standout piece is the Wave necklace, crafted from cuprian elbaite tourmalines. These gemstones, with their vibrant electric hues, evoke the colors of the ocean and sea glass. The Wave is not only a visual masterpiece but also a testament to the technical skill required to create such intricate designs.

Reynolds highlighted the complexity involved in crafting the Wave. She explained that, while Schlumberger might have envisioned a similar piece, the technology available during his time would have made it nearly impossible to realize. Today, computer-aided design allows for greater precision and creativity, enabling the creation of fluid, dynamic forms that were once unimaginable.

Reimagining the Past for the Future

The archives of Jean Schlumberger serve as a rich source of inspiration for the collection. Reynolds emphasized that looking back at the past is essential for reinventing the future. By drawing from Schlumberger’s work, Nathalie Verdeille has created a bridge between tradition and modernity.

An example of this approach is the Urchin collection, which was inspired by a clock designed by Schlumberger. The clock’s spiny texture resembled a sea urchin, and Verdeille transformed this concept into a complete collection. This demonstrates her ability to take elements from unexpected sources and elevate them into something extraordinary.

A Memorable Gemstone Discovery

One of Reynolds’ most memorable finds was the 7,500-carat kunzite. This rare gemstone was not only significant for its size but also for its historical importance. Named after George Frederick Kunz, the first chief gemologist of Tiffany & Co., the kunzite represents a connection to the brand’s heritage.

The kunzite was cut without heat treatment, making it even more unique. Reynolds described the experience of showing clients the raw stone as an opportunity to tell a story. Clients were given the chance to choose the shape and size of their stones, as well as customize the bird that would be placed on top. Each piece became a personal heirloom, with clients sharing unique stories about why they were drawn to the kunzite.

This level of customization is rare in the world of high jewellery, as clients typically do not get to see the gemstones from start to finish. However, the 60th anniversary of Bird on a Rock provided a unique opportunity to showcase the entire journey of the kunzite, from rough stone to finished piece.

Reynolds concluded by emphasizing the importance of preserving the legacy of gemologists like George Kunz while pushing the boundaries of what is possible in high jewellery. The Blue Book 2025 Sea of Wonder collection is a celebration of both history and innovation, reflecting the enduring influence of Jean Schlumberger and the vision of Nathalie Verdeille.